Pizza
Total Pies: 224
I love making pizza. Since getting a city-friendly pizza oven I've been making about a dozen pies a month and taking notes along the way. I have a long way to go but I'm pretty happy with progress so far.
Inspiration comes from my favorite pizza spots in SF (PizzaHacker, Flour+Water, Piccino) and the world (Pizzeria Bianco, Una Pizza Napoletana, Pizzeria Beddia).
×
- 2x Margherita
- Sopressata, ricotta, hot honey
- Bigger dough ball test: 280g, 300g, 320g
- Big pies are great – 300g is a great size on the big paddle
- Dough can stretch much more than I expect; gets nice and cracker-y if so
- Go lighter on the sauce – don’t want any pooling
- Go light on the oil and cheese too, it should look a little sparse; only the Bianca should be sort of thick and layered
- Pepperoni, pancetta, potatoes – can go on in the beginning on the big Ooni
- Pancetta, potato, rosemary
- Asiago, mozzerella, parmesean, garlic, red pepper flakes
- Ricotta, sopressata, hot honey
- Marghertia
- 1st time since mid-Feb, definitely a little rusty
- Didn’t pull dough correctly, crust was too thick + too thin in middle
- Ricotta + sopressata + hot honey + garlic was amazing though, definitely a new favorite
- Didn’t realize my paddle was only 11.6” wide, have effectively been doing 10” pies with a huge dough ball (280g)
- Bought a 16” peel to try some bigger pies
- Sweet potato, sage, veal
- Potato, pancetta, rosemary
- Chorizo + pickled jalepeños
- Crimini + oyster mushrooms
- Veal + carmelized onions
- Kitchen was a little too cold, dough didn’t rise enough – need to find a way to keep dough box at 70 F in the winter
- First time doing potato + pancetta in a while, still an all-time pie
- TJ’s pickled jalepeños are great on pizzas - just spicy enough
- 2x Bianca (Piccino): parmesan, pecorino, mozzarella, red pepper flakes, sliced garlic
- 2x Prosciutto + arugula
- Pepperoni + pepperoncini
- Dough didn’t rise much, I think the starter is a little weak and needs to be re-strenghtened
- Tossing arugula with olive oil + lemon made a big difference, add some balsamic next time
- Bianca (Piccino): pecorino, mozzerella, paremesean, sliced garlic, red pepper flakes
- Mediterranean (Pizzahacker): red onions, Spanish chorizo, Kalamata olives
- Margherita
- Pepperoni + pepperoncini
- Roasted mushroom (Beddia)
- 280g dough balls still a bit big, ~250g still the sweet spot
- Still have an inconsistent middle crust area, need to work on that
- Letting oven heat up for 45m+ resulted in a 750 F+ temp throughout
- Pepperoni with pesto
- Pepperoni with ricotta
- Marghertia with cherry tomatoes
- Finally cracked naturally-leavened dough!! It was puffy, spunky, and delicious – a way bigger improvement than I was expecting. Turns out it was my starter - when I mixed the starter for this dough it rose like crazy. 10 days of 2x daily feeding and then 8 days of daily feeding got to be consistently active, doubling in size overnight.
- Ricotta wasn’t very tasty, just tasted bland. Think I’ll try burrata next time.
Debugging naturally-leavened dough
- Is my starter in good shape?
- Should double in size after today’s feeding
- Conducted float test (dollop of starter should float in glass of water) but my starter failed
- Levain
- Use correct water temp + wait for room temp to be regular levels (60ish)
- Check that levain doubled in size
- Switch to high-protein bread flour instead of 00
- After feeding, starter didn’t rise on kitchen counter overnight but rose a ton in the oven (no heat just oven light). Must be too cold on the counter.
- 3x Marghertia
- Hot Coppa
- Bottom comes out much crispier when stone is 800+ F
- 225g is really perfect dough size for Koda 13, small enough that the pie can get decent distance from the flame and thus crust doesn’t burnt
- Putting tomato sauce, cheese, olive oil all on beforehand gets everything nice and creamy
- Salami and basil only need 30s in the oven
- Apollonia (Una Pizza Napoletana): egg, pancetta, black pepper, garlic, basil
- 2x Marghertia
- Buffalo mozzarella was a huge upgrade; wet enough that it won’t dry out if it cooks on the pizza the entire time
- Tomato sauce made from Italbrand tomatoes also great; just pureed with a little salt
- 280g dough balls too big for Koda 13, need to target 225-250g
- Dough stretching technique needs work
- I think it’s getting too thin in the center and needs to be more even
- Don’t push down with finger tips so hard, pat it down with pads of fingers
- Try out this method of stretching dough
- Anthony method of flipping it over a few times but to not try and take the air out of it
- Appollonia didn’t come out right; was basically scrambled eggs on pizza
- Need to add it very late and use spoon to drizzle it on the pizza
- Do less than a whole egg
- Add black pepper and fresh garlic
- Swiss chard and garlic cream
- 2x Bianca: pecorino, mozzerella, paremesean, sliced garlic, red pepper flakes
- Did 3 x 280g balls slightly too big — 250g definitely the ticket
- The dough balls being too big causes the crust to be too chewy
- Got pretty close on the Piccino Bianca — need to go light on the mozz (has so much moisture, add pecorino, and do 1:1:1 ratio. Make chili oil spicier, needed to kick it up with flakes
- Don’t scrimp on the garlic slices, they aren’t too flavorful
- Put garlic in close to the end so that they don’t burn
- Try cooking at a lower temp generally – when I did Delfina’s pizzas at 600 way back when they came out really nice
- Consistently undercooking the pizzas — cook em longer
- Kale pesto and garlic cream was delish do that more
- Chard needs to be very moist and out in late as to not burn
- The soft dough is really difficult to get out of the box — think of different solutions. More flour helped a lot though
- Watch some more videos on how to shape dough,
- 2x Bianca (Piccino): parmesan, pecorino, mozzarella, chili oil, garlic
- 2x Potato, pancetta, rosemary
- Single Ken dough recipe, split into 3 250g dough balls
- Make dough right before people come over on Saturday, in time for Sunday lunch (do regular 24-48hr dough, most compatible with the schedule)
- Want to get dough to rise more
- Maybe it’s OK that the dough doesn’t rise: Ken says says the dough will expand rather than rise after a cold ferment
- “To prevent salt from foiling your bread bakes, measure carefully and never pour yeast and salt on top of one another in your mixing bowl.” (source)
- Room could be too cold, try letting it rise in a warm place (source)
- [[The Pizza Lab: How Long Should I Let My Dough Cold Ferment?]]
- Longer fermentation affects leoparding: slower fermentation causes stronger gluten structures, allowing the gluten to expand more and create airer dough
- Caputo 00 Pizzeria flour (source)
- Pizzeria is 12.5% protein, whereas retail Americana style is 13.5%.
- Apparently Pizzeria style is better suited for ovens that are 500+ degrees
- brickovenbaker.com has Caputo 00 Pizzeria flour repacked into smaller units, bought 9lbs for $22 (equivalent to 4 regular bags)
- Get some different yeast, I have a sense the corner store yeast isn’t good (source)
- Ken recommends SAF Red Instant yeast, stored airtight in the fridge for up to 6mo
- 200g per pizza too little, need to use 250g+
- 36hr total ferment, think it was too long, stick to 24hr or try Saturday pizza dough
- Use much more flour on the bottom so it doesn’t stick so much
- Dough
- Making 24-48hr dough, 1.5x quantity
- Scale not accurate enough for salt/yeast, did 3 tsp of salt, 1/2 tsp on yeast
- Timeline
- Started at 8:20
- Mixed at 8:40
- Kneaded at 9:00
- Turned into dough balls at 11:30
- Became 6x 200g dough balls, want to aim for 250g in the future
- Prepped Beddia dough out at 8:45, pull Ken dough at 10:30
- Ken dough seems like it hasn’t risen at all. Maybe there isn’t enough yeast, or I didn’t properly activate the yeast. Hard to cut that recipe in half given how little yeast content there is.
- Alex said she did half of Ken’s dough after 24hrs and second half after 36hrs and the second batch came out much lighter/less dense. Good idea for next time, esp since I’ve got the fridge space.
- Beddia dough was very flat and stretchy, barely held together. Ended up splitting it into 4 dough balls that were 215g each. Had I left it to sit for longer after rerolling I think it could have been nice.
- Yeast is not dead tested it
- Put toppings on pizza after putting it in better, less burnt
- Pizza shop dough just too wet for neopolitan style pizza
- Pizza needs hours to settle putting into a ball – prepared at 4:30, was unworkable at 5:30, was barely OK at 6:30, much better by 7:30
- Basil creme was a hit – much better than regular basil
- Cherry tomatoes oven roasted for a bit with pepper flakes and olive oil ++
- Use real anchovies not the paste
- Margherita
- 2x Arriabiata: tomato sauce mixed with Calabrian Chili
- 2x Green Goddess (Starbelly): arugula, bacon, green goddess dressing
- My technique still isn’t there yet the pizzas were too thin and had too much crust on them
- Dough was really hard to work with, wasn’t stretchy and elastic
- Next time, try dough from Pizza Shop, Delfina, Pizzhacker
- Garlic cream and chard
- 2x Calabrian chili, roasted red peppers, dandelion greens
- Ricotta cream, spinach, garlic
- Garlic cream and chard was really tasty and beautiful, basically a cheesy garlic bread with chard
- Red peppers are too watery to use, could try again and roast them for much longer, they just tasted soggy
- Used too much Ricotta, pie became floppy
- Split Lamonica dough into 220g balls, came out OK but very thin, would like to try a 300-350g ball for a thicker crust/longer cook time
- Really overdid it on quantity, had 3 cups and barely used 1 cup
- Margherita
- Panna (Delfina): margherita + cream + sliced parmesan
- 3x Nduja + pepperoncini
- 3x Potato, pancetta, rosemary
- What went well:
- Pizzas came out really nice, best set I’ve ever done in general
- Both potato and nduja were delicious, fully flavored
- Smoked salt on the crown was nice
- Potato really benefitted from:
- Nice olive oil pre-cooking
- Lots of chives and rosemary
- Bianco sauce was a huge upgrade over my own tomato sauce
- Mixed with chilbrean was nice
- Olive oil drizzled on the margarita was really nice
- My dough stretching technique getting better, dough still feels pretty chewy and not as airy as Pizzahacker’s, but better than before
- What didn’t go well:
- Don’t feel like my cream situation is ideal
- Panna still not working, need to study Delfina’s
- 2x Prosicutto + arugula
- 2x Margherita
- What went well
- Dough was a perfect consistency when I started at 10:45a and cooked at 6:30a
- Turning the heat up between pizzas to get it back to 800 is a good move to get the bottom sufficiently crispy
- Prosciutto arugula was pretty good
- Flaky salt on all pretty good
- What didn’t go well
- Rolling pin doesn’t really help - makes it all too flat/uniform and doesn’t give it a good crust
- Taste is still not there
- Sort of feels like all the ingredients aren’t meshing
- Doesn’t feel like a full mouth feel, too bready or boring
- Tomato sauce is too chunky/watery?
- What to try next time
- Sample some pizzas from Pizzahacker, Delfina and study then (maybe go to the restaurant?)
- Look for a pizza making class
- Consult with Kamran
- Try store bought tomato sauce again
- 2x Margherita
- 2x Potato, pancetta, rosemary
- What worked
- Pizza station was perfect
- Potato pizza had promise
- Lots of bottom heat at first and then lower heat throughout seems like a good approach
- 4 dough balls for 6 people was right (with a 2 calzone mix ups)
- Semolina was much better than flour
- What didn’t
- Dough got too crusty to work with — by 7:30 was really tough to handle
- 7:30 was 9.5 hr of room temp, targeting a solid 8 would have been perf or maybe even less
- Doing pizzas after episode was very stressful, everyone was just waiting on me
- Dough kept getting too thin in the middle, too thick on sides — maybe try a rolling pin?
- Few of those pizzas were too bready, needed more toppings to stay interesting
- Many of them still not round, round really key to getting it right
- Flame too tall, pizzas kept catching on fire
- Bottom got too thin on multiple
- Was doing too much work on the paddles
- Stop doing garlic bread until I can figure out how to make it more interesting
- Next time
- Max 8 hours (maybe even less)
- Try rolling pin
- Turn the heat even lower when pizza is in there (to avoid catching on fire)
- Flaky Salt all the pizzas after they come out
- Sharp cheese on the potato pizza?